Traditional Indian Prints – History, Types & Techniques

The history of traditional Indian prints dates back thousands of years and reflects our art, culture, and skilled work. These prints began during the Indus Valley Civilisation and grew during the Mauryan Empire, when Indian fabrics were traded with Rome.

Also, during the Medieval period, designs from Persia and Central Asia, such as paisley and buta, became part of Indian patterns. Later, during colonial times, Indian textiles were sent to Europe, where their designs were copied and admired.

Over time, the textile industry has continued to evolve, and the artisans kept the old methods alive while mixing them with new styles to match modern fashion. Continue reading this article, as we have covered some of the most important types of Indian prints in the textile industry.

Top 10 Traditional Indian Prints

Indian fabrics and prints have always been an important part of the country’s cultural heritage. Over the years, these textile patterns have crossed borders and inspired many designers across the world. Here are some of the most famous and traditional Indian fabric prints:

Ikat Print

One of the oldest and most distinctive dyeing techniques used to create patterned textiles is the Ikat prints, which is also called Ikkat or Kat prints. The word Ikat comes from the Indonesian word mengikat, which means “to tie” or “to bind”.

Even though Ikat print is believed to have originated in Indonesia, it has become an important part of the textile industry in India, Central Asia, and South America. Ikat prints usually consist of slightly blurred patterns that are created using a careful resist-dyeing process, which demands both patience and skill.

Traditional Patterns:

Ikat fabrics feature bold geometric designs, abstract shapes, or motifs inspired by nature and culture. Also, Ikat patterns have soft, blurred edges, making every piece of fabric unique.

Regional Variations:

• Patola (Gujarat, India): This variation is widely known for the double Ikat technique and has complex geometric designs.
• Pochampally Ikat (Telangana, India): It features bright colours and repeating geometric motifs.

Ikat prints are still loved today, carrying traditional skills into the modern world of fashion.

Dabu Print

Dabu print, also called Dabu block printing, which originates from Rajasthan, India, is a traditional hand block print that uses a special mud-resist technique to create beautiful patterns on fabric. Dabu print is loved for its raw, natural look, making every fabric special and different from the rest.

How Dabu Printing is Done:

• Mud Resist: A thick paste made by mixing riverbed clay with natural ingredients like gum or wheat chaff is applied on the fabric using carved wooden blocks, stencils, or even by hand, depending on the design.
• Dyeing: Once the mud design dries, the fabric is dipped into natural dyes made from plants and minerals. Some of the most commonly used dyes include indigo blue, deep reds, and earthy tones.
• Sun Drying: The fabric is allowed to sun dry, during which the mud cracks slightly, adding more detail to the design.
• Washing: Finally, the cloth is washed to remove the dried mud, and the hidden patterns appear, giving the fabric its rustic and artistic finish.

Ajrakh Print

If you are wondering what is Ajrakh print, it is a traditional textile print in India that has been practised for centuries in the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan.

Traditional Patterns:

It features repeating squares, diamonds, circles, and motifs inspired by leaves, vines, and flowers. In this method, artisans use carved wooden blocks to apply natural dyes like indigo, crimson red, black, and white onto fabric.

Ajrakh carries deep cultural meaning, where it is proudly worn during festivals, ceremonies, and important occasions in Sindhi traditions.

Bandhani Prints

Bandhani, also called bandhej or tie-dye, is one of the most colourful and detailed traditional India prints, which originated in Gujarat centuries ago and has been passed down through generations. The name “Bandhani” comes from the Sanskrit word “bandh”, meaning “to tie.”

In this technique, tiny portions of fabric are tied tightly with thread before dyeing. These tied areas resist the colour, leaving behind beautiful patterns once the fabric is opened, which gives Bandhani its signature dotted and intricate designs.

Traditional Patterns:

Bandhani designs can range from tiny dots and stripes to motifs like flowers, peacocks, and geometric shapes. Some well-known styles include Chandrakala (moon-shaped patterns), Bavan Baug (52 squares), and Shikari (hunter designs).

Regional Variations:

• The Khatri community of Kutch, Gujarat, is especially known for creating highly detailed Bandhani fabrics.
• Bandhani prints created in Rajasthan are recognised for their striking colours and bold patterns.
• In Punjab, Bandhani is used in turbans (pagris).

Today, Bandhani prints are used not only in traditional clothes but also in modern outfits and accessories by designers.

Batik

Batik is a beautiful and traditional Indian print that uses a special wax-resist dyeing process. It is believed to have originated from Indonesia, especially in Java and Bali, which later became popular in Malaysia, Thailand, India, and even in certain parts of Africa. Batik prints are widely recognised for their bright colours, detailed designs, and deep cultural value.

Techniques:

In this method, hot wax is applied to certain parts of the fabric so that those areas don’t absorb the dye. So, when the cloth is dipped in dye, the waxed sections remain untouched. By repeating this process with different colours and patterns, artisans create rich, multicoloured designs full of detail.

The three main types of Batik include Batik Tulis (Written Batik), Batik Cap (Stamped Batik) and Batik Lukis (Painted Batik).

Regional Variations:

Batik may also have regional variations depending on where it is made. In Java, the Batik designs are very detailed and often represent cultural stories or social symbols. Balinese Batik stands out with its bold colours and patterns inspired by Hindu myths. The floral and nature-based designs are the speciality of Malaysian Batik, with each region adding its own unique touch.

Block Printing

If you are wondering what is block printing, it can be considered as one of the oldest textile printing techniques that has been practised for hundreds of years in many regions across the world. It uses hand-carved wooden or linoleum blocks to print the patterns onto fabric or paper to get beautiful, detailed, and repeatable designs.

Rajasthan, Gujarat, and Madhya Pradesh are the states that are famous for Indian block printing.

How Block Printing is Done:

• Block Carving: Skilled artisans carefully carve designs onto wooden blocks using fine tools.
• Inking: The block is dipped into natural or synthetic dyes, ensuring the colour spreads evenly.
• Printing: In this step, the block is pressed firmly onto the fabric or paper, transferring the design. This process is repeated to create continuous patterns.
• Drying: Once printed, the fabric is left to dry so the colour sets well.
• Fixing: Sometimes, a special solution is applied to the fabric to make the print long-lasting and durable.

Bagh Print

Bagh print is a traditional Indian print that comes from the small village of Bagh in Madhya Pradesh. This hand block printing technique is known for its detailed floral and geometric designs.

How Bagh Printing is Done:

• Preparing the fabric: The cloth is cleaned and soaked in a mixture of water, rock salt, goat dung, and castor oil, then washed several times.
• Pre-dyeing: A natural solution called Harara is applied, which gives the fabric a base colour and helps the dyes appear richer.
• Block carving: Artisans carve designs onto wooden blocks.
• Printing: The blocks are dipped in natural dyes, commonly indigo for blue and alizarin for red, and carefully stamped on the fabric.
• Dyeing: The fabric is left to dry and then treated in a solution that fixes the colours.
• Washing: Finally, the cloth is washed to remove extra dye, resulting in the soft, earthy tones

Regional Variations:

Even though this craft is most closely tied to Bagh village, similar block printing traditions are found in Rajasthan and Gujarat as well, where each region adds its own unique patterns and styles.

Kalamkari Print

Kalamkari is one of the oldest and most detailed traditional Indian prints, known for its hand-painted and block-printed designs. Kalamkari’s origin dates back to ancient times and is even mentioned in epic stories like the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. The word Kalamkari comes from two Persian words, “kalam” meaning pen and “kari” meaning work, indicating the use of pens and brushes in this craft. This art grew in many parts of India, mainly in Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, Tamil Nadu, and West Bengal.

Techniques in Kalamkari:

• Srikalahasti Kalamkari: In this technique, the print is created entirely by hand, where artists use a special pen-like tool called a kalam to draw and paint designs. Colours made from natural sources, such as plants and minerals, are used.
• Machilipatnam Kalamkari: In this style, carved wooden blocks are used to print designs on the fabric. After the design has been printed, artisans add details and colours using brushes and pens for finishing touches.

Today, Kalamkari prints are loved worldwide and are used in fashion, home home décor, and accessories. Also, many designers use digital printing to recreate Kalamkari motifs.

Sanganeri Print

Sanganeri print is a traditional Indian print that comes from the town of Sanganer in Rajasthan, India. Making of Sanganeri prints is a detailed and time-consuming process, which is why it is considered such a special and respected art form. In earlier days, the designs were printed on white or off-white fabric, but these days they are created on many different types of cloth.

Traditional Patterns:

Sanganeri prints feature floral and nature-inspired motifs. The most common designs often include tiny flowers, vines, and leaves arranged in a neat way, giving the fabric a graceful and attractive look.

Shibori Print

Shibori is a traditional dyeing method, hailing from Japan, which is known for its detailed and artistic patterns. The word Shibori comes from the Japanese term “shiboru”, which means to wring, squeeze, or press. Also, no two fabrics made with Shibori prints will ever look the same, because the patterns are always unique and unpredictable.

Different Shibori Techniques:

• Itajime Shibori: In this method, the fabric is folded, placed between wooden or plastic blocks, and then tied tightly to create geometric designs.
• Kumo Shibori: This method involves pleating the cloth in small sections, and they are tied at intervals, forming spiderweb-like shapes.
• Arashi Shibori: The fabric is wrapped around a pole or pipe and bound with string, forming diagonal rain-like streaks.
• Nui Shibori: At first, the fabric is stitched with thread before dyeing. Once the dyeing is done, the stitches are removed, resulting in distinct patterns.
• Kanoko Shibori: Threads are tied with different levels of tightness to create dotted and circular designs.
• Miura Shibori: In this style, small sections of fabric are plucked with a needle and looped with thread, giving the cloth flowing, water-like effects.

The Bottom Line

In this article, we have covered the various traditional Indian prints that have been passed down for centuries, reflecting the rich culture and artistry of different regions in India. Even though fashion trends continue to change, it is equally important to understand and appreciate the history of textiles and prints. This helps us not only value the clothes we wear but also honour the skilled artisans who keep these crafts alive.

Frequently Asked Questions on Traditional Indian Prints